Joshua Tree Backpacking: The California Hiking & Riding Trail
Joshua Tree isn’t just for climbers! Learn about the 37-mile California hiking and riding trail – an awesome backpacking trip to spot spring wildflowers, stargaze, and get those legs ready for summer.
While most people visit Joshua Tree National Park for day hiking, bouldering, and climbing, a Joshua Tree backpacking trip is an incredible experience as well.
The 37-mile California Hiking and Riding Trail runs through the national park from west to east and offers hikers an unforgettable desert backpacking experience. From starry night skies to blooming fields of wildflowers to unique rock formations, and, of course, plenty of Joshua Tree photo ops, this is a great one to add to your backpacking bucket list.
In this post, I share all of the details you need to know to make this Joshua Tree adventure happen including what gear to pack, what to wear, how to plan water caches, and more.
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About the California Hiking & Riding Trail
The California Hiking and Riding Trail was originally envisioned in 1945 as a 3,000+ mile trek from the Mexico/US border to Oregon. Although the trail was never completed, 1,000 miles were finalized and 36.5 of those miles are in Joshua Tree National Park.
California Hiking and Riding Trail Map
Why do a Joshua Tree Backpacking Trip?
Here are just a few reasons to put the California Hiking and Riding Trail on your calendar:
- It is a great backpacking trip for first time backpackers as the terrain is fairly flat. It’s also a great introduction to backpacking in the desert.
- The 36.5 mile strech that traverses Joshua Tree can easily be done in a single weeked (2-4 days)
- Joshua Tree National Park’s wildflowers bloom from February to April, making this trail the perfect winter/spring desert backpacking getaway
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Best Time for Backpacking in Joshua Tree
Temperatures in Joshua Tree National Park are most comfortable in the Fall and Spring with a daily average high of 85F and nightly lows around 50F. February to April is when wildflowers typically bloom in Joshua Tree and it is a very popular time to visit for this reason.
The average Winter temps in Joshua Tree are in the 60s during the day and 30s at night while the average summer temps can exceed 100F during the day and be in the low 70s at night. We do not recommend backpacking in the Joshua Tree desert summer heat.
How to Get to Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree National Park is located 2 hours from Los Angeles, 3 hours from Las Vegas, 2.5 hours from San Diego, and 4 hours from Phoenix. There are three official entrances to the park – the West Entrance, the North Entrance, and the South Entrance.
For the California Hiking and Riding Trail, you’ll start near the west entrance and end near the north entrance. There is a Visitor Center at both of those entry points.
How to prepare for your Joshua Tree Backpacking Trip
National Park Entrance Fees
There is a $30 per car entrance fee to visit Joshua Tree National Park. This pass is good for 7 days. Get the America the Beautiful Annual Park pass and save on entrance fees!
Camping
The California Hiking and Riding Trail passes by several established paid campgrounds that are both first-come, first-served (Belle, Hidden Valley, and White Tank), and reservations required (Jumbo Rocks and Ryan).
If you would rather disperse camp, backcountry camping is permitted in areas that are:
- 1 mile (1.6 km) from roads
- 500 feet from trails and water sources
- Not day-use only areas
If you do choose to camp in any of the designated campgrounds there is a fee and reservations are highly recommended. Campfires are prohibited outside of government-provided fire rings. Portable cooking stoves are fine, though.
Backcountry Registration
Before setting out into the Joshua Tree National Park backcountry, you are required to register at one of the backcountry boards. If you’re starting from the West Entrance, this would most likely be at Black Rock Campground and Nature Center.
If you’re starting from the North Entrance, you’ll want to register at the North Entrance Visitor Center. You can park your car at either starting point.
Transportation
The California Hiking and Riding Trail is not a loop. Unless you plan to hike out and back you’ll need two vehicles. Park one vehicle at the North Entrance Station, your final destination, and use the second vehicle to drive West back to the Black Rock campground where you’ll start the trail. Don’t forget to pack your keys for the car at the end!
Water and water caches
You’ll need to carry at least six liters of water per person per day. In Joshua Tree, even if you find water you can’t legally drink it as it is preserved for desert wildlife. You’ll need to either carry enough water for the entire trail (not recommended) or drop water caches BEFORE you start hiking.
A water cache is water that you hide in a strategic location to be picked up later on in your hike. In Joshua Tree National Park, you are allowed to cache food and water for up to 14 days. It is important to tag your cache with the date you plan to use it along with your name and email/telephone number so that park rangers can contact you if they need to remove your cache.
When I hiked the California Hiking and Riding Trail, I hid one 5 gallon water jug at two different water caches I created. It is important you remember exactly where you hide your cache so you can easily find it later. You can mark a nearby shrub with a string (remember to pick up the string with your water), take a photo of the area, write directions, or take a GPS waypoint of your cache.
I recommend dropping caches at the following locations: Ryan Campground & Belle Campground. If you are concerned about water, you can also drop at Geology Tour Road. All of these locations are accessible by vehicle.
You’ll want to drop your water either the morning you plan to start or the day before.
Joshua Tree Backpacking Gear List
This 3-day Backpacking Gear Checklist has all of the essential backpacking gear to take on a Joshua Tree backpacking trip. Here are a few additional recommendations for desert backpacking:
- Hiking boots or trail runners – since the terrain is fairly flat you don’t need heavy duty hiking boots for this trail, lightweight, breathable ones are preferred.
- Layers that provide sun protection – check out this post on what to wear hiking in the desert for some solid recommendations.
- A sun hat for keeping the sun off your face.
- Trekking poles – optional for this trail since the terrain is flat and not rocky.
- Gaiters – optional, but good for keeping sand and dirt out of your shoes.
- Sunscreen – the desert sun can be brutal even if it doesn’t seem super hot.
- Joshua Tree National Park map – The trail is well-marked along with frequent backcountry boards with information
- Water – You’ll need to carry extra water and prepare water caches as there are no water sources along the trail.
California Hiking and Riding Trail Itinerary
The California Hiking and Riding Trail in Joshua Tree is divided into 4 sections and most people hike the trail in 2-4 days. If you want to hike the trail in 2 days you would need to hike Section 1 and 2 on Day 1 then Section 3 and 4 on Day 2 and you’d average about 18 miles a day.
I chose to hike the trail in 3 days, which is an average of 12 miles a day. Here is how I broke the trail into 3 days:
The starting trailhead for the California Hiking and Riding Trail section that traverses Joshua Tree National Park is located in Black Rock campground. The road to Black Rock Canyon dead-ends at the campground where there is parking for backpackers at the backcountry registration board.
Backpackers are required to register at the backcountry board for overnight wilderness trips. Additionally, there is a visitor and nature center in the center of Black Rock Canyon campground where staff can help with last-minute questions.
Below, you’ll find a description of each of the four sections the National Park Service commonly breaks the Joshua Tree section of the California Hiking & Riding Trail into.
Section One
- Route: Black Rock Canyon Trailhead to Upper Covington Flats Trailhead
- Mileage: 7.75 miles
- Elevation gain: 1,200 ft
From the Black Rock Canyon trailhead, you’ll hike 7.75 miles through scrubland and a large wash to the Upper Covington Flats trailhead. This section includes a 1,000-foot uphill climb, which is the steepest elevation gain for the entire trail. After reaching the high point at 5,130 feet, you’ll have a downhill stretch for 2 miles to the Upper Covington Flats trailhead, parking area, and backcountry board.
Keep in mind, it is possible to drive directly to Upper Covington Flats so if you are short on time or don’t want to hike the first section this could be an option.
Section Two
- Route: Upper Covington Flats to Keys View Trailhead
- Mileage: 10.8 miles
- Starting gain: 1,230 ft
Section 2 from Upper Covington Flats to Keys View is the most remote section of the California Hiking and Riding Trail. This section begins rather flat then has a slight loss of elevation as you drop into a valley and cross several dry washes.
Next, you’ll climb again to above 5,000 feet with views over Juniper Flats. Once you start descending, you’ll enter Juniper Flats where you will start to see the infamous Joshua Trees that the park is named for. The trail continues traveling downhill from Lost Horse Valley to Keys View trailhead.
This was my favorite part of the California Hiking and Riding Trail as unique rock formations will begin appearing along the trail.
It is possible in this section to take a side trail to summit Quail Mountain, the highest mountain in Joshua Tree National Park at 5,813 feet. We didn’t see a sign for the side trail to Quail Mountain so I recommend you ask a Park Ranger before leaving or carry a good map if interested.
Section Three
- Route: Keys View Road to Pinto Basin Road
- Mileage: 11 miles
- Elevation gain: 470 ft
Keys View Road marks your halfway point. Just 0.8 miles from the trail is Ryan Campground where we camped our first night. We chose to pay to camp at Ryan Campground since I had hidden our first water cache here. I’m really happy we camped at Ryan Campground as numerous car and RV campers offered us beers that evening!
From Keys View trailhead, the trail is incredibly flat and it’s 6.5 miles to Geology Tour Rd. Don’t miss Jumbo Rocks which are tons of rocks stacked on one another almost like a building. Once you hit the Geology Tour Rd. it’s another 4.4 miles to Pinto Basin Road. Cherish these last two miles which offer spectacular views of Pinto Basin. Pinto Basin is geographically famous as it connects the Sonoran and Mojave Deserts.
Section Four
- Route: Pinto Basin Road to North Entrance
- Mileage: 7.3 miles
- Elevation gain: 75 ft
From Pinto Basin Road, you’ll begin traveling north. You will find a short side trail to Belle Campground. My friend and I camped here so that in the morning we’d be done before lunch. This is the only section of the trail where we did struggle a bit in finding and following the trail.
Make sure to use your compass and keep traveling due north. Towards the end, you’ll see a small hill which you summit. From the top, you’ll have a great view of the town of Twentynine Palms where the North Entrance and Oasis Visitor Center are located.
Joshua Tree Town Guide
The town of Joshua Tree itself is way cool and I highly recommend including a pre-trip final planning session or post-trip celebration in town! Here are a few highlights not to miss:
- Joshua Tree Coffee Company – On 29 Palms HWY, Joshua Tree Coffee Company, is a little hidden behind Pie for the People. They have the best vanilla latte I’ve ever had! Their nitro cold brew is also not to be missed.
- Pie for the People – This is arguably the most unique pizza joint I’ve ever been too. You have to check out their menu, which includes red sauce, white sauce and pesto sauce based pizzas and pizza names like “David Bowie”, “HWY 62 Revisited”, “The Chip”, and “Barry White.” And what better way to re-enter into society after 3 days hiking than pizza?
- The Natural Sister’s Cafe – A vegetarian cafe that is open 7-2 daily with vegan options available, tons of great smoothies, and juices too!
- Nomad Ventures – In case you forgot any gear or food for the trail, Nomad Ventures has you covered. It is by far one of the best gear shops I’ve ever been to outside of a large city and their prices are competitive. Honestly, I stop every time I am in town just to check out the sale racks!
What questions do you have about Joshua Tree backpacking or the California Hiking and Riding Trail? If you’ve already done this trip, what advice or tips do you have to give? Let us know in the comments below!
